Very pure, with bracing chalk, diced lemon peel and honeysuckle notes streaming through. The bone-dry, piercing finish reveals an echo of salted butter. Drink now. 2,000 cases made.

More yellow than Lustau's manzanilla, Jarana is a lovely, proper fino with a nose of iodine, lemon blossom and popcorn. The palate is staunch and doesn't back down; the high-toned nut and citrus flavors seem classic and elevated. And the finish is intense and frames everything in walnut oil and toast.